Ever heard the term “As smooth as a baby’s bottom”? Have you ever wondered why baby skin is so smooth compared to our adult skin? That’s because babies skin is pumped full of collagen. Collagen is the main structural protein for our body. It is a long fibrous protein which gives our skin, cartilage, ligaments and tendons their structure. “Without collagen, our bodies would literally fall apart”. It provides strength, durability and is what makes kids, babies and the young appear so smooth and plump. As we age and collagen production declines, it causes our skin to lose that plump youthful appearance.
Collagen triple helix
What is it?
Collagen is a structure protein that makes up over 30% of the protein in our bodies. It is made of three protein chains wound tightly together in a triple helix. This mesh- like structure helps support cell shape by binding them together so they can properly develop and function. Collagen also helps tissue and bones heal. Its composition has been compared to that of steel rods supporting concrete blocks. This unique structure makes its tension strength stronger than steel.
How is it made?
Fibroblast are the most abundant cell in the human body which produce collagen. Fibroblast are specialized skin cells located in the Dermis (middle layer of skin). These Fibroblast produce collagen, elastin (the protein that gives our skin its elasticity) and glucosaminoglycans (GAGs). GAG’s are the ground substance that keeps the dermis hydrated. First Fibroblasts create short collagens called procollagen. The Fibroblasts are then transported out of the fibroblast and soon join together to make complete collagen molecules.
Collagen production occurs continuously throughout our lives: it repairs and replaces the old and damaged collagen tissue. As we age collagen levels drop: this is due to a decline in production and an increase in deterioration.
Protecting Current Collagen
There are two main ways to protect your current collagen: 1) Avoid UVA/ UVB rays. 2) Prevent free radical damage. Exposure to the sun is the #1 way we damage our collagen and is the biggest contributor to premature aging. It has been estimated that 90% of premature aging comes from sunlight and tanning beds.
The second step in protecting collagen is to use both topical and oral antioxidants. Antioxidants fight free radicals from UV damage, pollution, cigarette smoke and ozone. Antioxidants not only prevent destruction of your current collagen but also protect the fibroblast cells while they create new collagen.
Building New Collagen
There are a few ways to promote the growth of new collagen. Provide your body with Vitamin C both topically and orally. Studies have shown that when Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) is exposed to human skin, the production of new collagen increases 8-fold. This is an easy and effective method to start building new collagen!
Another way is chemical exfoliants: such as alpha hydroxy acids, B-hydroxy acids, salicylic acid, and fruit enzymes. These acids break down the bonds between cells in the Stratum Corneum (top layer of skin) and slough away dead skin, revealing fresh,new skin. Consistent exfoliation stimulates cell renewal. However, too much exfoliation can increase TEWL (trans epidermal water loss) so you’ll want your product to contains lots of humectants and occlusive ingredients. In other words, moisturize your skin! Exfoliants can also make you photosensitive (sensitive to the sun) so be sure to wear sunscreen even if your exfoliating product is in the form of night cream.
A third way to stimulate new collagen growth is to use products which contain collagen stimulating peptides (more on these individual peptides in future posts). These peptides bind to receptors on the Fibroblast membrane which stimulate new collagen growth. Studies have shown that using these collagen peptides stimulate collagen growth faster than Vitamin C. However, both are extremely effective at the job!
Collagen is key to your skin’s plump, smooth appearance. Because of chronological aging and environmental exposure we can not completely stop collagen loss. However, by taking preventive measures and stimulating the growth of new collagen we can still retain our skin’s supple, youthful appearance.
Resources
1) Perrin A, Bauza E, Dal Farra C, Domloge N: Stimulating effect of collagen-like peptide on the extracellular matrix of human skin: histological studies
2) S. MURAD: Regulation of collagen synthesis by ascorbic acid http://www.pnas.org/content/78/5/2879.full.pdf
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